Thank you so much guys!!!!!!! I'll try your suggestions to see if they will work. If not, I'll show you guys a picture of my build and ask your opinions again. Hopefully your suggestions will work. In all honesty I did think that my build may perhaps be kind of big but I thought it wouldn't be much of a problem because I've seen pictures and vids of builds that are even bigger than mine.

When I run across this issue, I usually put vertical support posts to reinforce. It's easier with core wood, but can be done with base level posts too, it just looks more messy.

If you want to get real pretty, and I'd wait until core wood or better, put in beams between posts. Once you get to where the roof tiles are highlighting yellow, stop and put the support shell in place.

Post, then beam, following roof line, and then add the post at the , now hanging end of the beam. Rinse, repeat until you've done the entire perimeter of the roof line. I usually only have to do this once. I have been putting a fire place and chimney in the center of a house too. So that often functions as a center roof support, and eliminates having to repeat the process a second time. Depending on the shape of the house you're building, it can be done so that it looks completely natural.

As a general contractor I just want to point out for clarity sake, beams run horizontally, posts run vertically.

Originally posted by wizard_of_woz:

As a general contractor I just want to point out for clarity sake, beams run horizontally, posts run vertically.

edited: was struggling, in my early morning state, to come up with the right names.

also, support is distributed across all touch points. you can put up a temporary support and build a roof, for example, and once built the roof tiles touching each other add just enough support to let you knock out the beam you put in and they won't collapse anymore, like a house of cards all leaning on each other just so. However an unprotected home built this way will fall in if you lose the wrong tile in a raid, so you were warned ... its better to have strong support all the way up, by burying beams inside walls or raising a terrain point somewhere to tie off from, etc.
it is not worth trying to build tall until you have ironwood beams.
roofing is the most challenging part of builds.

Originally posted by jillianski20:

Can someone please please please help me in solving my roof building problems or help me build it? I've been going at it for days and it keeps on collapsing. I'm going crazy. I've build beams to make sure that they are stable but it still won't work. I don't know what to do it with anymore. It started out good but but now it is just frustrating.

Building additional "support" beams means nothing in terms of building-stability mechanics in this game.

Just because something would make good, logical sense, in the real world, doesn't translate to proper building mechanics in Valheim.

The following video is older, but it explains the Valheim "stability" in buildings, and will hopefully help you solve you collapsing roof situation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD3YQGufXgA

using 4m beams is more support than using just walls/roof/floor tiles

You can create a lattice out of wooden beams for flavor/support using a mix of verticle, horizontal and diagonal beams.

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2415490347

Been there, done that! :-)

You're building is just a bit too high. There are tricks, but it depends on what construction you're using and what you have available. If you can build a few reinforced beams, you can sometimes solve the problem just putting a few in the walls to provide a bit more support.

Of course, a support beam or two to the floor usually solves the problem, but sometimes you don't want them in the way.

When you build, and highlight a piece, you will wee a color, blue means foundation, it's touching the ground, a natural rock, or a tree, green is good (close to foundation) yellow, orange red, once you hit dark red, that piece cannot support anything else. To strengthen a red piece, you need to create another connection to a stronger piece (like pillars coming up from the floor)

Some pieces have special rules, for example, stone cannot be supported by wood, however, any wood that is touching stone blocks you build will be blue, and count as foundation pieces :D

Core wood is also useful, as they are tall, a 4m firewood beam touching stone is a foundation, allowing it to support taller structures :)

Finally iron beams, these will be blue if built into stone, or natural ground/trees/etc. But they also count as foundation pieces for any other wood, including core wood :D

So to build tall, you can raise ground to create natural pillars (shouldn't need to do this for most builds)

Build some stone into the base of your walls, or for taller, have stone walls first floor, then build iron wood beams out of the stone, then core wood for some extra height ;D


But you can make a decent mead hall with just stone and core wood :)


Good luck :D

The *distance*, in terms of piece count not meters, to the anchored piece in the ground determines whether you're allowed to add more pieces to something. In other words, 6 pieces sticking out horizontally from a hill is just as weak as 6 pieces sticking straight up off the ground, despite being much closer to the ground. (Keep this in mind when people say the "height" is what matters. The chain distance to the ground, regardless of whether that distance is vertical or horizontal, makes it weak.)

When you attach a thing, the game "walks the graph" of pieces touching other pieces to get a count of the minimum number of pieces it has to traverse before it finds one that touches the ground.

This does get modified by different piece types. Different types of piece (wood, stone, iron-reinforced wood, etc) change the calculation of the "count" in ways that can help. For example, stone parts being stacked on other stone parts still have the same part count limit that wood parts do, BUT, when you chain a wood part off a stone part, the stone part essentially counts as ground for the wood part, resetting its distance count to zero so you can chain wood onto the top of a stone pillar like the stone was the ground.

The reason core-wood poles let you build higher than normal-wood poles comes mostly from the fact that core-wood poles are longer, so it takes fewer parts to chain longer distances.

Originally posted by dunbaratu:

The *distance*, in terms of piece count not meters, to the anchored piece in the ground determines whether you're allowed to add more pieces to something. In other words, 6 pieces sticking out horizontally from a hill is just as weak as 6 pieces sticking straight up off the ground, despite being much closer to the ground. (Keep this in mind when people say the "height" is what matters. The chain distance to the ground, regardless of whether that distance is vertical or horizontal, makes it weak.)

When you attach a thing, the game "walks the graph" of pieces touching other pieces to get a count of the minimum number of pieces it has to traverse before it finds one that touches the ground.

This does get modified by different piece types. Different types of piece (wood, stone, iron-reinforced wood, etc) change the calculation of the "count" in ways that can help. For example, stone parts being stacked on other stone parts still have the same part count limit that wood parts do, BUT, when you chain a wood part off a stone part, the stone part essentially counts as ground for the wood part, resetting its distance count to zero so you can chain wood onto the top of a stone pillar like the stone was the ground.

The reason core-wood poles let you build higher than normal-wood poles comes mostly from the fact that core-wood poles are longer, so it takes fewer parts to chain longer distances.

That is not true. Try creating a line of 2m core wood from a wall, along side 4m core wood, and 2m regular wood. In my test, from a stone wall, the 2m regular wood breaks at the 10m mark (the 6th segment), the 4m core wood breaks at the 12m mark (after 3 segments), and the 2m core wood breaks at the 14m mark (after 7 segments).

In any case, those are all great suggestions, but, for a roof, if it's collapsing, it's too high.

No, going from a 45 degree roof to a 26 degree roof will not fix it, but reducing the height of the peak will, if you can, which, means reducing the span.

If it's a wood roof on a wood wall, supporting the wall better will help. If it's a stone roof on a stone wall, supporting the roof with cross beams will help. Support beams from the floor will always help.

A wood roof on a stone wall can get support by adding cross beams with vertical support beams from the cross beams, but that's tricky, since the cross beams are likely going to be pretty weak, since the span is large (except for reinforced beams, which is usually the answer if you can make them).

Without knowing how it's built, it's hard to suggest fixes.

add bricks to support the bottom layers and/or use some stronger support beams
or plant trees near the corners for even better support

Or plant a tree right in the middle (need to have a bit of room and open sky until it's grown).

It's a bit risky, but some of my structures just needed the help while building - once all together they were strong enough to take all the trees away.

Just be aware, if the building isn't built that well and won't support itself, it will collapse when you cut the trees down. Can be bit of a brown trousers moment.